How to Install Your Outdoor Decking?

Spending the weekend grilling and dining alfresco with loved ones is an enjoyable activity. However, a comfortable and enjoyable outdoor environment is necessary for this type of enjoyment. It is a good idea to construct an outdoor deck for this reason, and decks can be adorned with an assortment of useful decorative elements.

A good outdoor deck can create a comfortable outdoor living space for you to enjoy a better life with your family. Therefore, you may need to build an outdoor deck.

While deck construction may appear to be a complex undertaking. But it can be simplified considerably by dividing it into smaller sub-projects. This will streamline the process of constructing a basic deck. Understanding what you are doing and taking your time will assist you in constructing your deck.

Permits and Regulations

Prior to commencing building renovations or new construction, a building permit is typically required from the local government in the majority of jurisdictions. An advantage of constructing an outdoor deck is that permits are not always necessary for heights that fall below the minimum requirement, which is typically 30 inches.

When to Construct a Deck?

Early autumn is an ideal time to construct a deck outside. In autumn, temperatures drop, which is ideal for engaging in outdoor activities. Nevertheless, autumn deck installation must be finished prior to the onset of winter. You may begin the task yourself in late spring if you so choose. In this manner, the days will grow longer and the temperature will increase.


Diverse Deck Material Types

Pressure-treated lumber is readily available and reasonably priced. And you can be purchased at any building supply retailer. As a consequence of this, pressure-treated lumber is frequently employed as a material for deck trim. Wood splinters are produced by this product, which renders it unsuitable for strolling barefoot. This variety of wood decking also develops fissures and warps with time.

Composite decking is an innovative material composed of timber fibers and recycled plastic. Durable, resistant to mildew, and waterproof, composite decking boards will not splinter, warp, or deteriorate. Additionally, it is extremely low-maintenance, saving considerable time and money. This is why composite decking is becoming more and more popular.

Cedar is approximately twice as expensive as pressure-treated timber, colorable, and resistant to pests. One potential drawback is its susceptibility to splitting and warping.

Tropical hardwoods like ipe are used to make high-end decking. They are very hard and sturdy, so they don’t take stains well and need to be covered with oil. Tropical hardwoods need hidden bolts to hold them to the joists.


Instructions for Installation

Sizing and Cutting Ledgers

  1. Rectify the rail configuration on the siding by employing a pencil and bubble level.
  2. Cut along the outline after adjusting the depth of the circular saw to match the depth of the boards.
  3. Place boards that were not inaccessible to the saw blade by utilizing a chisel and mallet.
  4. Remove cut planks and dispose of them.
  5. Measure the 2×8 dimension of the pressure-treated opening.
  6. Eliminate the 2×8-inch slabs.

Attaching the Ledge to the House

  1. Determine the length of the ledge and cut a stopper made of galvanized metal to suit.
  2. Position the stopper beneath the siding at the top of the aperture.
  3. Utilize nails to secure the sill to the window aperture. House joists should not be adorned with nails. Nail holes should be reserved for lag screws.
  4. Create countersink holes and pilot holes for lag screws, which facilitate the sinking of the lag screw heads. Two holes must be drilled for every additional wall tenon.
  5. Utilize a ratchet to insert lag screws and washers into studs.
  6. Putty exterior-grade caulk around the ledge, including the lag screw openings and flashing, utilizing a caulking gun.

Determine the Location of the Stud Feet

  1. Ascertain the approximate location of the three-post stud feet by measuring 8 feet away from the sill.
  2. Construct five platforms using discarded 2×4 boards.
  3. Position three stakes beyond the desired dimensions at each end of the deck, one on each side.
  4. Above the anticipated location of the stiles between the perforated planks on each side, draw a mason’s line.
  5. From the sill to the three-end perforated boards, three masonry lines extend. It is recommended to position these lines higher than the projected location of the post footings.
  6. Position a lead mallet at the intersection of the three masonry lines on the ground.
  7. Identify the location on the ground that the lead mallet will make contact with. While the lines and footings remain in position, do not disturb them.

Excavation and Pouring of Foundations

  1. Using the lead mallet to mark the locations, drill three foundation holes. Dig to a depth of one meter below the frost line, or to a location that is locally designated.
  2. Fill three inches of loose gravel into each opening.
  3. Cut the concrete conduit with a hand saw to a depth of 2 inches greater than the depth of the foundation holes. Insert a conduit into every footing aperture.
  4. Mix concrete with a garden hoe on a wheelbarrow.
  5. Completely fill the concrete conduit with concrete.
  6. Insert J-bolts, threads facing up, into each pipe while the concrete is still moist and flexible, leaving approximately 1 inch of thread exposed. Employ a lead mallet in order to identify every J-bolt.
  7. Detach the threads and base plate.

Installation of Struts

  1. A metal post anchor should be affixed to each J-bolt located in the base.
  2. Use a fastener to tighten each threaded J-bolt.
  3. Three six-by-six posts were cut using a chainsaw. Each post should be 1 foot longer than the distance between the top of the concrete base and the bottom of the mullion.
  4. Nail posts to metal post anchors.
  5. Each post is secured with two-by-four scrap planks.
  6. Indicate on the posts the cut locations. Construct a two-by-four joist mock-up to span from the sill to each post. Commencing in a horizontal stance, progressively decrease the far end by 1/4 inch every 5 feet. Water will be directed away from the residence by this slope.
  7. Mark the cut locations on each post using the bottom of the 2×4 stake as a point of reference. Use a quick square to wrap the mark around the post, but do not cut yet.

To Install the Beams

  1. You can create your own laminated outdoor grade crossbeams by nailing together two two-by-eight crossbeams adhered with construction adhesive if you do not have any on hand.
  2. Affix the timbers to the posts while labeling them.
  3. Use a circular saw to cut the posts on the previously made markings.
  4. Affix the saddle hardware to the post’s apex. Before the crossbar can be accepted, ensure that every open saddle is oriented in the same direction.
  5. Utilize galvanized fasteners to fasten the crossbeam to the saddle hardware after inserting it.

Installing the Top Plate and Outer Joists

  1. Conjoin the two exterior joists using an adhesive. A single joist will be affixed to a sill on one side. Establish joist supports between the joists and the sill.
  2. Affix the two exterior timbers to the transom and its exterior from the sill to the transom using screws.
  3. Conjoin the upper joist to the outer joist. Face screws should be inserted into the upper joist and secured to the exterior joist.
  4. Verify the level of the exterior framing on the top joist and outside joist by measuring each diagonal. If the framing is square, the two figures should correspond. Make any required adjustments.

To Install Deck Joists

  1. Mark the joists at 16-inch intervals along their length using a tape measure or the dimension specified on the deck plan. Commence by utilizing one of the exterior joists as the primary joist.
  2. Repeat the above measurements on the top joist of the deck.
  3. At each mark, nail the joist fasteners in the center.
  4. Cut to the desired length the floor joists two by two using a chainsaw.
  5. Screw the joist hangers to the joists using screws.
  6. Insert the joist hangers into the joists.
COOWIN composite decking

Installing Deck Boards

  1. With the deck boards installed onto the deck framing, determine the number of flooring pieces required to accommodate the distance between the house and the top joists. It is ideal for the final decking to be flush with the edge of the upper joist. Provide a 1/8-inch void space between each deck board.
  2. Utilize floor fasteners to fasten the flooring to the deck joists, beginning at the house.
  3. It may be necessary to make minor adjustments to the floor joints during the final five to six layers to ensure that the flooring is flush with the joists. This is preferable to removing the previous floor’s breadth.
  4. Utilize a circular saw to trim the floor ends to a flush alignment with the exterior perimeter joists.

When Is the Time to Employ a Professional?

Single, square, or rectangular porches are simple to install, and constructing one yourself can help you save money on labor. If you prefer not to do it yourself install the multi-layer deck or if you desire a different shape, you should employ a professional deck contractor.

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